Exhibition on how to drape saris: introduction

Families of drape Themes Exhibition in St. Paul, MN Index

Of all the arts that have flourished in India, draping cloth to dress the body is the most unique, yet the least studied, cultural treasure. It is also an ephemeral art -- as soon as a woman's sari or a man's dhoti is taken off, the particular style in which it encircled the body is lost, and the garment reverts to its flat rectangular form. If a particular style of draping becomes and remains unfashionable until all its wearers have died, the artistry of that style is permanently lost.
Draped garments have been worn in the Indian subcontinent from early civilizations to the present day. Over the centuries they have undergone innumerable fashion transformations. Many of the styles in which Indian women today drape their saris were developed in the 19th century under colonialism, when drapes were most numerous and indicative of caste.
During the 20th century, a large proportion of Indian men have begun wearing cut and sewn garments, in either Indian or European-influenced styles. In contrast, the larger proportion of Indian women wear draped garments, with the addition of cut and sewn blouses and petticoats. The style of draping saris has continued to change as women adopt regional styles or the national Nivi "Modern" sari, while giving up caste-specific or local styles.

Chantal Boulanger, a scholar from France, has traveled extensively throughout India during the last six years documenting styles of sari and dhoti draping. Through photographing and interviewing women, she has been able to collect both contemporary and now seldom worn historical styles, as well as both publicly and privately worn sari drapes.

Once a new drape was found, Chantal wore it through her daily activities in order to learn the more subtle intricacies of the style. As the body moves, the sari moves, putting stress on the wrapping and tying of cloth. Without knowledge of the small details in forming the drape, the sari might ride up and reveal too much of the body, or the drape might lose its shape and style.

Sari is defined by Boulanger as:
1. A piece of cloth of varying dimensions draped to form the main
garment and
2. A particular style of draping the cloth on the body of the wearer.
A sari has two dimensions: Its length, which may vary from two to nine yards, and its height, which varies from two to four feet.

Some of these styles of draping are very complex. Can you figure out how the sari on this "Touch & See" mannequin is draped?
Each of us, in our own culture, is accustomed to "reading" information about people from their dress. We can recognize social, cultural, or religious differences through dress.
In American society, can you tell the difference between the professor and student, doctor and nurse, bride and minister, by their dress?
Now, can you tell which one of these draping styles on the mannequins is worn by a woman from the Boro tribe? a labourer in the fields? a Brahmin?
In India both the sari textile and sari drape give clues to the identity of the wearer. They can reveal such information as the caste, marital status, religion, occupation or regional origin of the wearer. The social and historical meanings of draping often lie in hidden, minute details.
Simultaneously, sari textiles and sari draping styles are subject to fashion changes, as Indian women demand unique and interesting dress that reflects and suits their individual personalities and changing lives.

Here: Bengali sari, 5 or 6 yards. This sari belongs to the Dravidian family.

Aiyar Sari, 9 yards.

Aspects of some sari drapes carry religious significance for the wearer. The Aiyar Sari is one of these drapes. It is worn by women of several communities found mostly in the states of Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh:
Aiyar Brahmins, Smarta Brahmins who follow the religious teacher Shankaracharya, Gurukkal Brahmin priests serving temples to the Hindu god Shiva, and members of the non-Brahmin Acari caste of craftsmen. The sari must be nine yards long and it must have borders contrasting in color, to highlight the symbolism of the drape: The lower border crosses the front of the body five times, five being sacred to devotees of Shiva. The sari drape also has a male and female side, also symbolic of Shiva. The lower left side of the sari is draped with kosu pleating inside the back, a sari detail common to Tamil women, and the lower right side is draped like a man's dhoti.

This sari belongs to the dhoti family.

Exhibition in St. Paul, MN

EXPOSITION SUR LE DRAPE DES SARIS Hotel de région - St Denis La Réunion - Dipavali 99