Dhotis:

The most ancient recorded Indian drape (excluding the Harrapa civilisation) is a dhoti. Although Buddha is shown wearing a large mantle, his lay followers, such as Ashoka and the men and women represented on the stupa of Bharhut, wore elaborately pleated dhotis. Nowadays, dhotis are still worn by men all over India. They require a piece of cloth which seems longer and larger than what was worn in the past, but their pleating is often simpler, and they are not adorned with belts anymore.

All dhotis begin with the same basic closing. It is the only drape that doesn't start from one pallav (end of the sari), but from the centre of the upper border. The middle of the cloth is tied around the hips. Each end of the cloth is then draped around the leg on its side.

Left: Marwari dhoti, common in Maharashtra.

Far right: Classic dhoti, found all over India.

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